The Endless Diamond Guide to Diamond Quality and Value 

Our guide provides you with the basics of diamond education. We want you to understand and feel comfortable when shopping and purchasing a piece of diamond jewelry. We will walk you through the basics to make the learning process easy and exciting.

The four most popular factors to measure the quality and value of a diamond are, the “Four C’s”— Cut, Clarity, Color and Carat Weight. The quality and beauty is the result of these four characteristics.  Please see our Jewelry Glossary to familiarize yourself with jewelry terms and definitions.

  

Cut: Refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond.

Cut refers to the proportions, finish and the factors which determine the sparkle of the diamond. The cut of a diamond might be the most important of the four C’s because a good cut gives the diamond its brilliance. The diamond’s brilliance is determined by how the light disperses as it bounces and reflects within the diamond. The dispersion of the light produces different colors and the sparkle effect.

The angles and finish of any diamond are what determine its ability to handle light, which leads to brilliance.

The cuts can be shallow, deep, or ideal. The cut effects the price of the stone, and “ideal” is the best cut there is. A well cut diamond reflects the light internally from one facet to another and then disperses the light through the top (or table) of the stone back to the observer’s eye. Cuts that are too deep or too shallow lose light through the side or bottom, affecting the overall diamond brilliance. The diamond facets, when arranged in precise proportions, maximize the fire and brilliance of the diamond.

The shape of the diamond can also effect the reflection and dispersion of light. The round cut is the most brilliant and is often referred to as the brilliant cut. The symmetrical shape of the round diamond allows it to reflect all of the light entering the diamond.

Clarity: Refers to the degree of presence of inclusion in a diamond.

When we speak of a diamond’s clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone.

Diamond Clarity is determined by how clear or clean the diamond is. Diamonds have natural tiny flaws known as inclusions. The tiny inclusions are created by fractures and minerals while the diamond is forming. The inclusions include air bubbles, cracks and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond.

As light enters the diamond it is reflected and refracted out. An inclusion disrupts the flow of light in the diamond and a very small portion of reflected light will be lost. Most inclusions are not visible to the observer’s eye unless magnified. 

The clarity scale measures of the severity of the inclusions. The following is the GIA Diamond clarity scale:

F: Flawless (Extremely Rare)
These diamonds have no imperfections inside or on the outside of the stone under a loupe with a power 10 magnification.

IF: Internally Flawless (Very Rare) 
These diamonds have no inclusions under a loupe with a power 10 magnification.

VVS1, VVS2: Very Very Slight Inclusions
These diamonds have very small inclusions which are very difficult to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification.

VS1, VS2: Very Slight Inclusions
These diamonds have small inclusions which are slightly difficult to difficult to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification.

SI1, SI2: Slight Inclusions
These diamonds have inclusions which are fairly easy to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification, or visible to the naked eye.
 
I1, I2 and I3: Imperfect
These diamonds have inclusions which range from eye visible to very easily seen with the naked eye.
Like the other four C’s, clarity effects the price you will pay for a diamond. It is just as important for you to compare the clarity grades of two stones when you compare price. Diamonds with few or no inclusions are valued higher because they are rarer.

Color: Refers to the degree to which a diamond is colorless

Diamond Color refers to the presence or absence of color in white diamonds. The color of a diamond is a result of the composition of the diamond. The color of a diamond will never change. Grading the color of a diamond is determined by how close the diamond’s color approaches colorlessness.

The less color of the diamond allows more light to pass through the diamond than a colored diamond. Colorless diamonds emit more sparkle and fiery brilliance. The whiter the diamond’s color the greater its value.

A diamond that does not have enough color to be graded fancy, is graded in a scale of colors ranging from Colorless to Light Yellow, “D” through “Z”. A diamond with a “D” color is considered to be colorless. If the color is more intense than “Z”, it is considered fancy. Most diamonds have at least a trace of yellow or brown body color. With the exception of some natural fancy colors, such as blue, pink, purple, or red, the colorless grade is the most valuable.

All of the diamonds we use in our jewelry are in the G-H-I range.
 

Jewelry Glossary

Baguette
A diamond cut into a narrow rectangular shape. Tapered baguettes feature one narrow end and one broader end.

Bail
A gold hoop like element that is used to attach a pendant to a chain.

Band
A ring which is exchanged during the wedding ceremony. Traditionally it was made of gold with the same width all the way around. Modern bands often include diamonds. A band can also refer to the style of ring and can be worn as a fashion ring.

Bangle
A rigid bracelet designed to slip over the hand. However, DJW bangle designs do feature clasps.

Bezel Setting
A diamond setting style where a gold rim that surrounds the diamond to secure it in place. The bezel setting style is secure, and does not block light from entering the diamond.

Box Chain
A chain style featuring broad, square links. Another name for this chain is a Venetian chain.

Brightness
The reflections of white light seen when a diamond is viewed from the top.

Brilliance
Light reflected up through the surface of a diamond. Brilliance is maximized by cutting a diamond to the correct proportions.

Brilliant Cut
A specific diamond cut that has exactly 58 facets. A brilliant cut can have several shapes: round, oval, radiant (square), as well as pear-shaped or heart-shaped.

Cable Chain
A chain style featuring uniform, round links. Can also have a spring ring or lobster claw clasp.

Carat (ct.)
A unit of diamond weight, equivalent to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

Carat Total Weight (ct. tw.)
The combined carat weight of all diamonds in a piece of jewelry. For example, an invisible set diamond cluster with 7 diamonds ranging from 0.12 ct. to 0.28 ct. has a total carat weight of 1 ct.

Center Stone
The central, dominant diamond in a piece of jewelry set with multiple stones. 

Chain
A general term used to describe any series of connected gold links or loops. Typically used for bracelets, pendants, necklaces, and watch bands.

Channel Setting
A setting style where ridges in the gold create a channel that holds diamonds securely in place

Clarity
The clarity scale is used to describe how few inclusions a diamond has. The clarity scale ranges from flawless (FL), meaning a diamond has no internal or external flaws, to severely included (I3), meaning there are many flaws clearly visible to the naked eye. DJW only carries diamonds above SI and I1 quality.

Clasp
The general term for any type latching mechanism that connects two ends of a piece of jewelry securely together.

Culet
The point at the bottom of the pavilion of a diamond. The preferred culet grades for a round diamond range from none to small because med to large cutlets affect the diamond’s light performance.

Diamond
Diamonds are formed naturally when carbon is exposed to intense heat and pressure. Diamond is the hardest naturally-occurring substance on Earth, and is most resistant to scratching. 

Diameter
The width of a loose diamond, earring, pendant, or any round part of a piece of jewelry as measured across the widest part.

Drop Earrings
An earring that hangs below the ear lobe.

Drop Necklace
A necklace that features gold or diamonds dangling from a chain.

Facet
The flat polished surfaces on a diamond. Accurate facets are a primary factor in the amount of sparkle and fire a diamond displays.

Girdle
The intersection of the crown and pavilion which defines the perimeter of the diamond.

Gold
Gold has been used to create jewelry for centuries and is valued for its beauty, strength and malleability. Gold will never tarnish, rust, or corrode. While naturally yellow, various alloys are commonly added to gold to create white gold and rose gold. Gold is commonly measured by karat for jewelry:

Head
The gold basket that hold the center stone or solitaire in place.

Inclusion
A trace mineral, fracture, or other imperfection that contributes to the unique fingerprint of a diamond. All but the rarest diamonds contain inclusions, which are created during the diamonds’ formation in the earth.

Invisible Setting
The invisible setting technique was developed in France in the 1800s.  The technique is to goove or notch the diamonds so that stone's girdle can slip into a metal framework below the surface.  The metal cannot be seen, so stones sit side-by-side, creating a solid surface of diamonds.  Endless Diamond does not cut, notch or groove the diamonds.  Our patented invisible setting process, Touch Setting, holds the diamonds in a tension setting to produce an uninterrupted flow of fire and brilliance. 

Karat
Measurement of the purity of gold. Pure gold is too soft to withstand the stresses of every-day wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, nickel, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Products made from gold are marked to show how much actual gold is contained in the product: 

• 24 karat = 100% gold
• 22 karat = 91.7% gold
• 18 karat = 75.0% gold
• 14 karat = 58.3% gold
• 10 karat = 41.7% gold

Lobster Claw Clasp
Named for its appearance, the lobster claw clasp uses the pressure of a tiny spring to keep its claw closed.

Natural Diamond
Diamonds which occur naturally as part of a geological formation, as opposed to being created in a laboratory.

Pavé Setting
From the French word for pavement, these stones are set low and very close, so that the surface appears to be paved with diamonds.

Prong Setting
When a diamond is set with prongs, each prong is bent to securely hold the diamond by the crown. Other settings include bezel, channel, and pavé.

Rhodium
A metal alloy commonly applied as an incredibly hard, protective coating to white gold. This coating offers the advantages of making these white metals even whiter.

Ring setting
Collective term for the shank and the head of a ring which contains no center stone.

Ring size
A measurement, generally between 5 to 10 for women and 10 to 13 for men, determined by two factors: the diameter of the finger on which the ring will be worn, and the knuckle which the ring must slip over comfortably.

Rolo Chain
A chain style featuring uniform, round links. Similar to a cable chain, but designed to lay flatter.

Rope Chain
A chain comprised of a series of small, oval-shaped precious metal links that are designed to resemble a woven rope.
 
Rose Gold
Rose gold gets its color from a larger proportion of copper in the metal alloy. This gives the gold a beautiful pink color.

Round Diamond
The cut arrangement and proportions of the round diamond are based on the 57-facet design established in 1919 by diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky. Today, round diamond cut is graded based on proportions and diamond quality standards.

Semi-Mount
A setting that is complete with the exception of the center or main diamond.

Shank
The part of the ring that encircles the finger. Strictly speaking, the shank of the ring does not include the head.

Solitaire
Solitaire is the general descriptor of a single diamond mounted alone on the band. The setting varieties could include bezel and prong.

Spring Ring Clasp
The spring ring is opened when the arm of the clasp is pulled backwards. The pressure of a tiny spring keeps the arm closed.

Stud Earrings
A simple earring style featuring diamonds set on a straight post.

Table
The largest facet of a gemstone, located on the top of the diamond, through which refracted light escapes as brilliance.

Touch Setting
A revolutionary method of invisible setting where the diamonds are never cut or altered. Instead of the groove cutting, the diamonds hold each other to create an appearance of a single solitaire diamond. Jewelry with this setting can be recognized by the Endless Diamond brand trademark14KH© and patent number Pat.6591633.

Wedding Ring
A ring which is exchanged during the wedding ceremony. It is traditionally made of gold and has the same width all the way around. Whether or not the wedding band matches the engagement ring is a personal preference.

Wheat Link Chain
A style of chain featuring interlocking twisted oval links. Can feature spring or lobster clasps.

White gold
Because 18k white gold is 75% gold, and 14k white gold is 58.3% gold, jewelry made from these metals has a slight yellow color. To enhance the whiteness, almost all white gold is plated with rhodium, a shiny, white metal which is extremely hard. Depending on the amount of wear to a piece of jewelry, over time this rhodium plating may wear off, revealing the original metal color. Re-plating is a simple process that can be done to restore your jewelry’s whiteness if needed.

Yellow Gold
Gold has been used to create jewelry for centuries and is valued for its beauty, strength and malleability. Gold will never tarnish, rust, or corrode. While naturally yellow, various alloys are commonly added to gold to create white gold and rose gold. Gold is commonly measured by karat for jewelry.